DIY Termite Management

Have you ever received a quote for a termite control management system such as baiting and monitoring and fallen over at the price?

Surely it couldn’t cost that much!

Perhaps you thought you could take on the job yourself and save a fair bit of money.

‘Can’t be that hard you say to yourself, chuck a bit of timber in the garden and wait…….there you go nothing to it’.

Reality is you can install a rudimentary system and with a bit of luck you may end up with termites in one or two of the pieces of timber.

But do you really want to ‘muck around’ with termites?

Termites can cost you $1000′s and eat out a large portion of your home without you even realising it.

Remember your household insurance policy does not cover the damage of a termite attack.

Additionally when you consider the value of the average Brisbane house now exceeds $450000 then attempting to ‘save’ a few bucks on DIY termite management seems pretty silly doesn’t it?

Professional Pest Managers know termites!

They know which ones are a threat, what attracts them, the tell tale signs of an attack and what termiticides/treatments will offer the best solution.

You should also remember that buying a $20 bottle of ‘termite stuff’ from Bunnings WILL NOT do the job.

ONLY licensed Pest Controllers can access the proper termiticides.

As a DIYer you run the risk of missing an emerging termite infestation, with dire consequences.

Don’t risk it-call a BSA licensed Pest Controller.

Termite Barriers

Termite Barriers

Also known as a treated zone and are generally applied when active termites are found in a property. The process involves trenching and treating the entire perimeter of the structure and ensuring an even spread of termiticide from the footings to the surface.

They should only be applied by Licenced Pest Control Companies.

Where pathways and driveways abut the structure it is generally recommended that the concrete is cut away and removed and the soil underneath dug out (and replaced if necessary) and chemically treated.

The main advantage of a termite barrier is that after application it will generally be between 5 and 10 years before you even have to think about doing it again-assuming the barrier is not disturbed in any way.

Popular chemical termiticides used include Biflex, Premise and Termidor-each with their own pro’s and cons.

Termiticides are classified into two general classes-repellant and non repellant.Repellant termiticides such as Biflex kill on contact and termites are ‘repelled’ by the chemical. Non repellant termiticides such as Premise and Termidor allow the termites to penetrate the treated soil where they
‘pick up’ the active ingredient and take it back to the nest-this is what is known as the ‘transfer effect’.

Provided the chemical treated zone is applied correctly i.e. there is an even distribution of chemical throughout the soil that abuts the structure then Termites will find it very difficult to get into the home
whether the chemical is non-repellent or repellent.

That said chemical treated zones are difficult to install correctly given the variety of construction methods and soil varieties in Australia.

Slab construction techniques such as ‘infill’ and ‘waffle pod’ offer their own unique problems.

The majority of houses have pathways and driveways made of concrete that abut the structure.

Ideally the concrete should be cut away and the soil dug up and treated before replacing the concrete.
In many situations the soil will contain all sorts of foreign objects such as timber off cuts, broken bottles etc that must be removed.

Many homeowners do not want their pathways/driveways ‘cut up’ and so elect to have them drilled and injected. This process involves drilling below the concrete every 200mm and injecting the termiticide under pressure through the hole to the soil/surface underneath.

The main problem with this technique is that you can never be sure of what is happening under the concrete. Although not the recommended option on most occassions this method is successful. homeowners need to way up the cost versus the risk.

Physical Barriers

Many newer homes are protected by plastic sheeting which is impregnated with termiticide such as Homeguard or Kordon. Other physical barriers include Granitgard and Termimesh.

Many unsuspecting Homeowners believe these physical barriers will protect their house from getting termites.

Reality is the physical barriers are designed to force the termites out into the open.They are not designed to stop them.  Remedial treatments can then be applied to the active termites.

After Treatment

Once a chemical treated zone is set up correctly it’s important to ensure that the treated zone is not breached by the addition of untreated soil or by the stacking of items against the wall of the house such as firewood.

Conducive Conditions

Conducive conditions are those conditions that exist in and around the structure that increase the chances of termite attack.

They include:

-tree roots and stumps

-timber in contact with the ground

-leaking taps and guttering

-poor drainage

-garden beds up against the structure

-watering systems etc.

Many of these conditions increase the chances of termite attack and/or concealed termite entry to the home. They should be attended to immediately.

How long will the termite barrier last?

All chemical barriers break down over time and will last between 5 and 10 years depending on the chemical used and environmental factors.

Depending  on the house design and the surrounding environment most homeowners should be looking to replace their treated zones at the 5 year mark.

Cost

Properly installed termite barriers vary in cost but you can expect to pay in excess of $2500 depending on the chemicals used and the size of your house.

Many consumers are tempted to use the ‘cheap and cheerful’ operators who charge significantly less but use low quality chemicals, do not offer a service period and perform poor workmanship.

Like everything in life you get what you pay for! Termite Control is no different.