Fleas are small parasitic insects with a 4 stage lifecycle.
1. Egg
2. Larvae
3. Pupae
4. Adult
Completion of the life cycle from egg to adult varies from two weeks to more than a year depending on the temperature, humidity, food availability and species.
A typical flea population consists of 50% eggs, 35% larvae, 10% pupae and 5% adults.
The female flea lays approximately 50 eggs per day-after a ‘blood meal’- usually on the host (dogs, cats, rats, mice, possums, chickens, humans, etc.).
The eggs can and do drop off the host onto/into any location ,especially where the host rests, sleeps or nests e.g. rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, cat or dog boxes, etc.).
Eggs hatch into larvae in two days to two weeks and can be found virtually anywhere indoors or out.
Larvae take a week to several months to develop. Their food consists of digested blood from adult flea faeces, dead skin, hair, feathers, and other organic debris.
Pupae mature to adulthood within a silken cocoon woven by the larvae.
Adult fleas emerge from the cocoon in anywhere from 4 to 14 days or can remain dormant for long periods (exceeding 12 months) until the detection of vibration, pressure, heat, noise, or carbon dioxide. Generally anything that indicates a ‘blood meal’ is near.
Most fleas spend winter in the larval or pupae stage with survival and growth best during warm, moist periods like summer and spring.
Did you know?
For every flea on you or your pet there can be 100’s waiting to emerge.
In ideal conditions 10 female fleas can multiply to a flea population of over a 250 000 in just 30 days.
Optimum temperatures for the flea's life cycle are 70°F to 85°F and optimum humidity is 70%, making Brisbane an ideal environment for fleas.
There are over 70 species of fleas in Australia.
The body of adult fleas is laterally compressed, enabling them to move quickly and easily through dense hair or fur, and each of the six legs has a pair of claws at the tip to enable them to remain attached to the host regardless of scratching. The hind legs are well developed to facilitate jumping onto a passing host.
When a flea infestation occurs in a domestic residence, the bites are usually observed on the ankles and lower parts of the legs as small red spots, which is due to the injection of flea saliva at the time of biting to prevent the blood coagulating and can cause severe irritation.
Spreading lime on the ground will NOT kill fleas. It will make the treatment less effective.
You can bring fleas into your home even if you do not have pets.
Your pets can pick up fleas from public spaces or stray cats/dogs visiting your property or possums or rats and mice.
Flea Treatments
Because more than three quarters of the flea's life cycle is spent somewhere other than on the host it is vital to also treat the host's environment.
Because a typical flea population consists of 50% eggs, 35% larvae, 10% pupae and 5% adults it is also crucial that treatments treat all 4 stages of the lifecycle.
Many DIY ‘bombs’ can treat the adult fleas but fail to treat the other 3 stages i.e. 95% of the existing flea population!
Insect growth regulators MUST be used to prevent the development of the immature stages of the lifecycle.
These are expensive, generally only available to licensed pest controllers and a good reason why ‘cheap’ one shot flea treatments are mostly ineffective and should be avoided AT ALL COSTS!
Also worth noting is the fact that some flea populations are becoming increasingly resistant to many popular insecticides-especially the ‘over the counter’ varieties.
As a consequence treating fleas successfully has become much more difficult and involved.
Modern flea control should be approached using Integrated Pest Management (IPM) protocols.IPM is a ‘holistic’ approach to flea control where you work alongside your pest manager using chemical and non chemical methods to achieve total flea elimination from your property.
What we will do:
At My Pest Control your flea control treatment program will generally consist of 2 parts.
Part A
Identified infested areas will be treated with appropriate adulticides to kill the adult flea population and an insect growth regulator (IGR), to prevent the continued development of the immature stages of the lifecycle.
Mature adult fleas will be eliminated and the IGR will contunue working on ‘future’ generations.
However, depending on the size of the initial infestation you may continue to notice newly emerged or immature adult fleas. These immature fleas have exoskeletons that haven't hardened up yet. Once they come into contact with a treated surface they will pick up a lethal dose of the active ingredient and die.
Part B
You may find that a Part A treatment when combined with other non chemical Integrated Pest Management protocols is enough to fix the flea infestation.
If on the other hand your infestation is well established and some of the population has resistance to the adulticide used in Part A or fleas have merged in another part of your property that was not treated previously then a Part B treatment will be required.
Identified infested areas will be treated with a different adulticide to that used in Part A as well as an insect growth regulator (IGR).
What you need to do:
There are many essential tasks you will need to undertake as part of an effective flea control treatment program.
Chemical
Treat Your Pet Regularly.Modern day ‘over the counter’ products should be used consistently to stop any existing flea infestation as well as to prevent future attack. Note that animals with fleas should also be treated for tapeworm.
It is also good practice to alternate ‘brands’ or ‘active ingredients’ to reduce the possibility of flea resistance.
Care must also be taken with cats who cannot metabolise some of the compounds in the various products.
Non Chemical
1. Thorough vacuuming. A laboratory study done at the University of California showed that vacuuming catches about 96% of adult fleas. Vacuum thoroughly and often and include any furnishings in close contact or used by your pet.
Remember to treat the vacuum bag after each session with any insecticidal spray before discarding-this will prevent a flea infestation in your vacuum cleaner!
2. Wash all potentially infested fabrics/linens in very hot water.
3. Restrict access of your pet to public areas frequented by potentially infested animals (e.g. council play areas) and sub floor areas under your house during summer months.
Before We Chemically Treat Internally
Pick up all small items from the floor including children's toys, magazines, pet feeding bowls.
Thoroughly vacuum and mop all floors.
Ensure that we can spray under beds.
Do not move any major furniture.
Cover fish tanks and turn off filters.
Remove pets and humans whilst we treat and do not re enter the house until the spray is dry. Properly ventilate the premises after treatment.
Be especially careful of cats. Cats that walk on the wet spray may then lick their paws and can become sick.
Note: It is safe for your family, babies and pets once the spray is dry but allow 4 hours for the treatment to dry and the premises to properly ventilate to be on the safe side.
Before We Chemically Treat Externally
Pick up all small items from round the house including children's toys, bikes, garden equipment etc.
Do not move any major outdoor furniture.
Remove pets and humans whilst we treat and do not re enter the area until the spray is dry. Be especially careful of cats. Cats that walk on the wet spray may then lick their paws and can become sick.
Note: It is safe for your family, babies and pets once the spray is dry but allow 4 hours for the treatment to dry and the premises to properly ventilate to be on the safe side.
Before We Chemically Treat Your Lawn
Pick up all small items from the lawn including children's toys, bikes, garden equipment etc.
Do not move any major outdoor furniture.
Remove pets and humans whilst we treat and do not re enter the area until the spray is dry. Be especially careful of cats. Cats that walk on the wet spray may then lick their paws and can become sick.
Cut the grass is cut as short as possible. Dispose of the clippings carefully as they may contain active fleas.
Ensure the lawn has had a good watering before the treatment.
Warranty
Flea Control Treatments come with a 3 month warranty provided a Part B treatment has been applied.
No Warranty applies if only Part A of the treatment is completed.
Please note: that not every flea infestation requires a Part B treatment and there is no obligation on the client to have it done.
Many clients find that a Part A treatment when combined with additional non chemical Integrated Pest Management protocols is enough to fix the problem.
It obviously depends on many factors such as the size of the flea infestation, the locality of the infestation, how much you the client participate in the process, the type and possible ‘resistance’ levels of the flea population etc.
The Part B treatment must be done between 2 weeks and 4 weeks after the Part A treatment for the 3 month warranty to apply.
Flea Treatment Price Guide
An internal only Part A treatment costs $165 for an average sized lowset slab on ground 3 to 4 bedroom house. The Part B treatment will cost $135. Both treatments include a 1 metre perimeter spray around your house.
Subfloor area Part A treatments cost $165 for an average sized area. The Part B treatment will cost $135. Both treatments include a 1 metre perimeter spray around your house.
Yard treatments will depend on the size of the area to be treated.
For more information fill in the online enquiry formor call Ross on 0416 096 725 (email preferred as many times we are stuck in ceiling voids or in subfloors....:-) Emails usually answered within 60 minutes.
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